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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 4:40 pm 

Just drop it into someneck guitars, be done quick, no fuss and at a decent price.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 5:52 pm 

prof. wedgie wrote:
Slightly related to this but probably a much easier fix, just I'm absolutely clueless at changing things around. I play a 5 string, but I'm looking change from B-G to E-C for more chordal and harmony stuff. Would there be much messing around with the bridge and the action to get a decent sound? Or is it just a case of figuring out which gauge strings will work best?


The only thing which might be an issue is the nut, sometimes the B slot can be cut low. You might also find the smaller strings move on the slots. Both of these would most likely mean a new nut is needed.

Other than that, if you like the tension of your current EADG strings, just go with the same sizes (105-85-65-45) is probably most common and you’ll keep roughly the same tension as B strings are usually sized light in commercial packs and when you put on the C it’ll probably be a 30 or 25 and in the same general tension area.

You will most likely need to make minor tweaks to the action and, after that, the intonation but it’s really not hard and there’s a wealth of information out there on how to do it.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 11:08 pm 

Juggz wrote:
Welcome to the forum.

It's a shim and, again, it's easy to do

https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/ ... lt-on-neck

As for your nut, just get some fine sandpaper, take the nut off and sand the bottom of it until it's low enough - being careful to take your time and not sand away too much. If you go slow and check frequently, it's hard to get wrong.

Dual truss rods are usually found in wide necks like your 6 string bass (4 string Rickenbackers have them too) and it allows you to fine tune the straightness of the neck on either side, depending on the force exerted by the strings. They don't need to be the same tightness, they need to be tightened so that the neck relief is equal on both sides of the neck if you have a set of strings which don't have the same tension on the bass and treble sides. Understand how the truss rod works and it will make sense.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-8xn3BOew4

Any tech who thinks a guitar is all that different from a bass would not inspire confidence.



Thanks for that Juggz. I don't any maple veneer (or other suitable veneer) sitting around that I can think of but I'll see what I can source locally (Dundalk-based). Once I posted my post I knew straight away that I shouldn't be placing improvised prison weapons under the neck of my guitar =D I'll do a bit more reading (including the link you sent) on how to work out what angle the shim needs to be. The neck (truss rods) don't seem too far off what I think they should be, maybe a minor adjustment, will try that when I've daylight tomorrow. The B-String in particular doesn't sit down into the nut well so, should I start by using an old (similar) string to deepen that notch before shaving the nut? (it's already detached so, wouldn't be hard to sand the bottom with 1000-grit). I must also give that guitar shop in Dublin a call and see what they suggest/could do

Thanks for all the help so far guys! And as mentioned, yeah, this a dangerous site for my wallet =P


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 8:04 am 

Have a look in Woodies for a small set of round files, they usially have them for around a fiver. That will help you cut your B string slot. When you file, take your time and check frequently. The difference between just right and too deep is tiny. Check frequently. Did I mention check frequently?

Your shim doesn’t need to be anything specific, I’ve even used two layers of a business card before and it was grand. You just need to very slightly change the angle between neck and body. A small change of angle means a big change at the bridge so it won’t need to be anything too big. Don’t overtighten the neck screws either.


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